Malaga is a great choice for a short break early in the year as it’s one of the warmest places in mainland Europe in the winter/spring time. Last time I was there in January 2020 the weather was lovely and sunny – though with some rain – and temperatures in the late teens, but I decided it might be nicer to go a little later in March and hope for even warmer weather and, of course, the days would be a little longer. It didn’t actually turn out quite like this. The weather was much the same, though thankfully, despite forecasts of lots of rain, it didn’t rain at all, except a couple of times at night. So no umbrella was needed! A Dutch couple in the hotel told me they’d been there at exactly the same time last year and the temperature was 25 degrees. Still, despite slight weather disappointment, Malaga was as beautiful as I remembered. Indeed, one morning when I was walking through the historic centre quite early and it was fairly deserted, I had to restrain myself from taking too many photos as nearly everywhere you go there’s a perfect photo shot in front of you. And for the food and art lover, it has to be one of the best places for a short springtime break.

Wednesday – Arrival

I’d booked to stay at the Hotel Sallés Malaga Centro, which is where I’ve stayed on my two previous trips to Malaga. It’s a lovely friendly hotel and very close to the centre so wonderfully convenient for a short break where you don’t want to be staying too far away from all the action. It also has a roof terrace bar with wonderful views and it’s a great place to sit with a coffee or drink and relax for a while. It also has a small swimming pool.

Click here to read more about the hotel. One slight warning, I was given a room at the front this time that was a bit noisy if I had the window open, so another time I’ll be sure to request a room at the back. They do give a discount and some special bonuses if you book direct on their website: 50% off breakfast when included; a complimentary drink in one of the bars on arrival; the possibility of a late check-out at 2pm rather than 12 noon if available.

Rather ironically as it turned out, I’d been telling friends that my flight was very early (I had to get up at 4am) as I wanted to fly from Heathrow rather than Gatwick so I didn’t have to rely on trains as there’s so much disruption on them these days. Heathrow is close to home – a 20-minute cab drive or 40 minutes on the 490 bus which has a stop two minutes’ walk from my home. The outward journey went fine and I was in Malaga in time for lunch. But then on Friday morning I learnt that Heathrow was completely closed down due to a large fire … would I get home okay the next day? Luckily I did. Despite often bad press, British Airways did keep me informed and by the time I flew home late Saturday afternoon, I was fortunate that my flight was unaffected and I got home on time and with no problems.

Having checked into the hotel, I took the short walk to the historic centre hoping to have lunch at one of my favourite places from my previous trips – Cafe Central.

I was surprised and disappointed to see it had closed down. It had seemed like a Malaga institution. I also liked that I could have paella for lunch there as it’s rare to find places in Spain that will serve it for just one. However, there are lots of other great alternatives for lunch in Malaga, so I made my way to the nearby Casa Lola where I’ve lunched before and that was perfect (click here for more).

After that I wandered down to the port area, which is always lively. I do like being close to the sea and although Malaga doesn’t offer a particularly attractive beach, it’s still a good area to relax and spend time.

I’d arrived during the Malaga Festival. This was another irony. When I watched Michael Portillo’s great series on Andulusia on Channel 5 a few months ago, he was in Malaga during a festival and I vowed to check the dates and avoid it! Perhaps it was as well I didn’t check as my trip was already booked. It turned out not to be a problem. It was perhaps a bit busier and the beautiful Plaza de la Constitución was full of stages and temporary marquees, but I didn’t feel it in any way spoilt my time there. And perhaps because of the festival, the port area had lots of craft stalls, which I enjoyed looking at and even bought a few things. 

Malaga is a great city to wander round with its beautiful buildings and it’s very green, with areas full of trees – particularly near the port – and beds of plants and flowers. Amongst newer shops and cafes you’ll see the odd old traditional place, which is fun.

   

   

I’d booked to eat at El Pimpi in the evening. I went there on my first trip in 2018. It’s a bit of a cliché – it’s known for being a favourite haunt of the famous, from the Picasso family, Antonio Banderas, politicians – and Michael Portillo when he was on his Andalusian travels! It’s the kind of place I usually avoid but I’d enjoyed my first visit so thought I’d go again.

The first time I hadn’t booked but got a seat at the bar which was great fun and so when I made a reservation this time for the bar area, I thought that’s where I’d be. It turned out I wasn’t but instead in a bar-restaurant area at the back, full of wine barrels, and giving the impression – no doubt by design – that you’d walked into someone’s wine cellar. It was nice enough – but didn’t have quite the same convivial atmosphere as the actual bar, especially for the solo diner.

The staff were friendly, though it could be a little tricky getting their attention so not great service. I had Salmorjo to start and then grilled sea bream and both were delicious – the bill including wine was €31.30. 

 

They didn’t have a dessert I wanted so I decided to go elsewhere for that and a coffee. I headed for Casa Aranda, thinking I’d have some churros, but arrived as they were closing. Their hours are slightly odd for a Londoner who doesn’t normally eat churros, closing at 12.45, reopening at 5.15 and then closing again at 8.15. Churros would have to wait but meanwhile serendipity was at play. I turned a corner to head back down towards Plaza de la Constitución and spied De Nata selling freshly baked pasteis de nata. In I went!

The women in there were so friendly and the pasteis de nata were superb. During the day you can see them being made just behind the counter.

   

What a great end to my first day.

Thursday – Artisan Coffee, Paella & Churros – and Picasso!

Malaga’s most famous ‘son’ is Picasso who was born there in 1881. I went to the small museum at his birth house in 2018 but had somehow missed that there was a large museum dedicated to him – Museo Picasso Malaga – with over 200 of his paintings, sculptures and other works. I came across it while wandering near El Pimpi before eating there the night before, so once back at my hotel booked a ticket for the next day for 10am.

I had a bit of time to fill in while waiting for the museum to open and was near the beautiful cathedral (also near the museum) and came across a cafe – Santa Coffee – in San Agustin saying it served specialist coffee.

To be honest, it looked fairly ordinary but it turned out to be quite special. And I can tell you that it’s the first cafe I’ve been into and ordered a cortado (my go-to coffee in Spain) and been asked what bean I’d like. I needed the choices explained to me and chose Columbia bean. It was perhaps the best cortado I’ve ever had! Amazing coffee. The guy there told me that they roasted their own beans in a place nearby. They also had some very tempting cakes – but I resisted!

   

From the cafe it was just a short walk further along San Agustin to the museum.

The museum is set in a narrow street with a fairly small entrance, which frankly is quite easy to miss (giving myself excuses here for not seeing it on my previous visits) but I’m so glad I found it. I really enjoyed my visit and the building was lovely inside too – El Palacio de Buenavista.

As a collection, it didn’t really match the Picasso museums of Paris and Barcelona (which I’ve also been to) but nevertheless there were some beautiful artworks and you are taken through Picasso’s development as an artist in a really interesting way, which is all the more special in the city where he was born. 

By a happy chance my friend Sharon was visiting a friend near Malaga and suggested meeting up. A table was booked for a late lunch at Ultramarinos Benjamin. And now, it turned out, I would get my paella! I do love paella. I’ve made it occasionally but only really eat it in Spain. The Spanish only eat it at lunchtime, believing eating rice in the evening is bad for the digestion.

Laurie was happy to share a seafood paella with me, while Sharon chose a cod dish. 

   

We had a couple of starters to begin and it was all delicious. It was great not only to spend time with friends but at last feel it was warm enough to sit outside. It was a lovely leisurely lunch and when we finally said our goodbyes, I made my way back to the hotel for a while. It didn’t take long, however, for the thought of churros to come to mind so I headed out again to Casa Aranda – barely a 5-minute walk from the hotel – and indulged in churros with a gorgeous thick hot chocolate to dip them into.

Friday – My Last Full Day – and My Favourite Places for Lunch & Dinner

It was great to wake to gorgeous weather on my last full day. I went back to Santa Coffee and had a flat white and croissant. Then I headed down to the port and walked further than the day before and on to the beach. As I said above, it’s not really a beautiful beach, but I do like to be by the sea so it’s nice to take a walk there. 

Walking back towards the city, I came to Centre Pompidou Malaga, which I visited on my first trip. You can see from my posts in 2018 (Day 1 and Day 2) that Malaga has some wonderful galleries and museums for the art lover to visit. 

There’s also the Roman theatre to see and the Alcazaba Fortress dating from the time of the Moors to visit (click here) and it’s worth going to, not only to see the ruins themselves but for the wonderful views over Malaga. 

I wanted to have lunch at the Atarazanas Market one day. It was my favourite place for lunch on my first two visits to Malaga and absolutely the best place to enjoy fish and seafood.

I always go back to the same bar. 

Bars with high tables and stools line the front of the market, spilling to the edge of the road. It’s always very busy and although I turned up just after noon, I had to wait a short time for a free table. But it was worth it. The staff are very friendly and I had the most wonderful plate of mixed fried fish that came with bread and a gorgeous aioli. I also had a 33cl glass of beer. It was as fabulous as I remembered and cost me just €11.

There’s a beautiful stained-glass window at one end of the market. 

I looked round for a while, in awe of the amazing food and stunning displays. How wonderful it would be to have this kind of produce readily available where one lives.

   

   

For my last evening’s meal I’d booked a table at El Tapeo de Cervantes. I’d not managed to get a table there on my first two visits so booked in good time and was really looking forward to it. Happily my high expectations were well met!

It’s a lovely traditional place – which I like best – and very attractive inside. I arrived as they were opening – hence the photo showing it empty – but it soon filled up. People arriving later were turned away so booking is essential.

My waiter was so helpful (he told me later his name was Kevin, which surprised me a little so I didn’t get round to asking if he was Spanish or where he came from, or check how his name was spelled). He and ‘the man in charge’ who’d rung to confirm my booking in the day, were keen that I should like everything, be happy. This played out exceptionally well later in the meal …

I wasn’t sure quite how much to order and Kevin told me to just order one or two dishes to start and I could always add more. While I was deciding on my whole menu, I ordered a tapas size of ‘porra’ (€4) – like a Salmorjo – to begin and some wine, a lovely Verdejo (€5.50). I’m not sure the Spanish ever measure wine, they just pour it generously! The porra was delicious and topped with a fried quail’s egg. It was definitely a big enough portion for a starter.

I then ordered two half ‘raciones’ – which are bigger than ‘tapas’ but not really main dishes. Or so I thought …

My first was a special of the day, Cod fish with leek pureé (€12). It also had walnuts with it. When it arrived I wasn’t sure it was a half portion it was so big. I attracted Kevin’s attention as he came past and asked him. It was a half portion he assured me, but if it was going to be too much to have the next half racione I’d order – duck breast with caramelised apple – then he could cancel it. They only wanted me to be happy. It was decided he’d put the duck on ‘pause’ and I could decide after eating the cod.

The cod was fantastic. It was a wonderful dish and I enjoyed it a lot. It was definitely enough though; a ‘main dish’ size for me. So the duck was cancelled. What incredible thoughtfulness. Where else would this happen! 

I may not have had room for the duck but I wasn’t leaving without a dessert when the cooking was this good. I chose a chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream and berry sauce (€7.50).

Okay so that was very indulgent. But I was on holiday! And it was very delicious. I finished with an espresso and my bill came to just €34.30. I’d sent photos to my daughter Nicola who replied that you could barely eat a basic meal in UK for that! It was a wonderful way to spend my last evening: fantastic food, brilliant service and just a great, lively atmosphere. Without doubt, El Tapeo de Cervantes is my favourite place to eat in Malaga.

Saturday – Making the Most of My Last Day

My last day. My flight home was at 17.20 so I had most of the day to fill and plenty of time for lunch. When I’m on a short break – just three nights – I like to make the most of the time by arriving early on the first day and leaving late afternoon on the last day so it feels more like a four-day break.

Walking through to the Plaza de la Constitución from my hotel – probably not even 5 minutes – it still looked gorgeous against the backdrop of a perfectly lovely, clear blue sky with the sun shining brightly despite the odd ‘festival’ prop. I’d had in mind breakfast at a cafe-bakery in the plaza but they were waiting for their croissants to come out of the oven. So I moved on to another I’d seen but not tried – Granier (I later saw another branch in the port).

It was busy and by the time I left there was a long queue outside. My coffee and croissant cost me a mere €2.70. The displays of open sandwiches and other food made it look like a good choice for a light lunch.

   

But lunch was going to be the market again. I’d seen they served half racione and whole racione portions of seafood paella. That just had to be my lunch. I was early again and there was no free table, but a waiter, checking I was alone, found a stool for an empty small high table and soon I was seated and ordering. A beer and a plate of bread and aioli came first. Then my paella – just €5. I hadn’t been sure whether to order a half or full size portion as it would be my meal of the day. I ordered half on the basis that if I felt I wanted more food, I could just order something else, but I didn’t need to. The paella was very good; lots of gorgeous sweet and tender prawns and clams in it. 

For dessert I decided on ice cream from Casa Mira, the leading ice cream cafe in Malaga dating back to 1890. I first went to the branch in Calle del Marques de Larios, the main street (pedestrianised) that runs from Plaza de la Constitución to the sea. However, the second time in Malaga I came across the branch in Cister near the Alcazabar Fortress entrance which I prefer. There are also tables to sit at and enjoy a quiet treat. It’s excellent ice cream; its reputation richly deserved.

   

And so ended my short break on notes of pure deliciousness! And sun! I made my way back to the hotel who had arranged a cab to take me to the airport. As the sun set, I was on my way back home after a really lovely time in Malaga.