I woke to rain and it was 10 o’clock by the time I ventured out in search of Le Petit Dejeuner. I decided to avoid Patisserie Dupont again – I went to the Deauville branch yesterday in Place Morny, had exactly the same breakfast as the day before in Trouville but had to pay an extra €1.90 for it. Obviously there is a premium for eating in Deauville! My plan was to go the Patisserie Charlotte Corday, recommended by a couple of people and Lonely Planet. After a 15 minute walk to almost Trouville beach, I was disappointed to discover it closed for holidays for the next week. I’d already noticed Dupont was closed today so I headed to Willy Cafe where I had coffee a couple of days ago. Closed. On to the beach to another cafe I’d noticed. Closed. My daughter Nicola, who is my star finder of good cafes when we’re on holiday together (even though she doesn’t drink coffee); who understands my need for coffee come 10ish, will understand how a little note of desperation was setting in come 10.30 and still no coffee. Suddenly I spied an open cafe.
It didn’t look especially attractive but I reckoned they were unlikely offer me instant coffee (never drunk by the Single Gourmet Traveller!), so it would be fine.
Oh, One should never judge a book by its cover, etc.! I sat down at a table in the covered terrace, was warmly welcomed and ordered Le Petit Dejeuner Francais at €8. Soon a wonderful ‘little’ breakfast was put before me. The waiter apologised that the croissant would be 2 to 3 minutes; someone was getting them from the Boulangerie.
It was all so beautifully laid out. The coffee was the best I’ve had since arriving. The fresh orange juice was really fresh and worthy of my friend George who produces the best freshly squeezed orange juice for breakfast I know, from local Valencia oranges, when I stay with him and Linda in Spain. I loved the little pots of preserves and the croissant when it came was light and buttery, just as a good croissant should be. And it all goes to show, that however badly the day may begin, however much rain may fall on your holiday, a little ray of sunshine may shine on you by chance – serendipity!
I bought a snack for lunch on the way back to Villa Caprice and later decided to head out along the coast by car to Benerville-sur-Mer where, the villa’s owners had told me, there’s a quieter beach with a good snack bar. It was very quiet indeed, and unfortunately the snack bar was closed, but I had a lovely walk along the deserted beach and can imagine it’s a stunning location on a sunny summer’s evening.
The car and I took a circular route down narrow roads and through little villages full of charm, eventually coming to Beaumont-en-Auge. I’d been told this was a pretty town by a number of people. It was very quiet and most places closed but I was able to get a coffee at Le P’tit Beaumont; watch men play boule in Place Verdun and take in the view, having not realised I was quite so high in this verdant land.
Then it was time to head back to the villa for a little down time before heading out again in the evening. The only major decision for the day now is, Which lovely restaurant shall I eat dinner at!
Really enjoying your Normandy blog.
Bistro des Artistes in Honfleur is brilliant for lunch and hiding from the weather if it’s bad, reserve a window seat, there are great views of the harbour from above. Anne Marie is a good cook, her bread is divine… Chocolates to die for…she has boundless energy to gallop up and down stairs in the narrow restaurant. Best to try to speak French to her…
Bistro des Artistes -30, Place Pierre Berthelot, 14600 Honfleur,
France – 02 31 89 95 90
Many thanks Joy. Glad you’re enjoying my Normandy adventures. I probably won’t go to Honfleur. I’ve been a few times before and am trying to get to some new places, but thanks for recommendation.